A luxury brand specifies Pantone 18-1463 ( Tiger Eye ) for their new handbag collection. The factory produces lab dips that look perfect under the showroom's daylight lamp. The buyer approves them by holding a leather swatch next to the Pantone chip in natural window light. Bulk production runs 3,000 units. When the finished bags arrive at the brand's distribution center, 20% of them look noticeably different from the approved sample under the store's LED lighting. The bags are rejected. The factory is asked to re-dye at their own cost. The loss: $18,000–$35,000.
This is not a hypothetical scenario. Color-related disputes account for 15–20% of all quality claims in leather goods manufacturing — making it the single largest category of buyer-factory disagreements. The root cause is rarely laziness or incompetence. It is almost always a breakdown in the color communication and approval process.
Color matching in leather bag production is fundamentally more complex than color matching in textiles or plastics. Leather is a natural material with inherent variation — each hide absorbs dye differently based on its fiber density, fat content, and surface characteristics. This makes leather color control both a science and a craft, and it requires a systematic process from initial reference through bulk production.
This guide covers every stage of that process — with specific standards, timelines, and cost data that help buyers and brands understand what professional color management looks like and why each step matters.
The Pantone Color System in Leather Manufacturing
The Pantone Matching System (PMS) is the universal language of color specification in fashion, accessories, and leather goods. It provides standardized color references that designers, brands, and factories can all point to — ensuring everyone is talking about the same shade of burgundy when they say "Pantone 19-1758 TCX."
Pantone Systems Used in Leather
The most critical point: always specify which Pantone system you are referencing. Pantone 18-1463 in the FHI (cotton) system is a completely different color from a number that may look similar in the Solid Coated system. Factories receive conflicting color instructions when brands reference numbers without specifying the system.
How Pantone References Are Used in Practice
When a brand specifies "Pantone 18-1463 TCX," the factory's color lab uses this as the master reference. However, Pantone swatches are printed on cotton (TCX) or paper (TPG) — not on leather. Leather absorbs and reflects light differently from cotton or paper. A color that matches perfectly on cotton may look different on finished leather, even with the same dye formula.
This is why Pantone references serve as the starting point for color matching, not the final standard. The actual production color standard is established through lab dips — physical leather samples dyed to match the Pantone reference.
When Brands Provide Physical Color Samples Instead
Many brands skip Pantone references entirely and instead provide a physical leather sample — a swatch from a previous collection, a piece of dyed fabric, or a custom-colored material. Physical samples are more reliable than Pantone numbers for leather because they represent the actual material behavior. However, they introduce other challenges:
- Fade and aging: A physical sample that has been exposed to light for months may have shifted from its original color. Matching to a faded sample produces bags that are too dark
- Metamerism in the reference itself: The sample may have been produced under different lighting conditions, meaning it already exhibits metamerism (color shift under different light sources)
- Size: A 2cm × 2cm swatch is too small for reliable visual comparison. Minimum recommended sample size is 5cm × 5cm
The Color Matching Process: Five Stages from Reference to Bulk
Professional leather bag factories follow a structured five-stage color management process. Each stage adds precision and catches errors before they escalate into expensive bulk production mistakes.
Stage 1: Color Reference Receipt and Analysis
The factory receives the color reference (Pantone number or physical sample) and conducts an initial analysis:
- Verify the reference is current and not faded (check against a fresh Pantone swatch if provided by number)
- Measure the reference color with a spectrophotometer to obtain its L*a*b* values — the numerical coordinates of the color in three-dimensional color space
- Check for metamerism in the reference itself by viewing it under multiple light sources (D65 daylight, TL84 warm fluorescent, CWF cool white fluorescent, and incandescent/A light)
- Identify the leather type and finish specified (aniline, semi-aniline, pigmented, suede) — this determines which dyeing method will be used
Stage 2: Lab Dip Creation
A lab dip is a small piece of leather (typically 10cm × 10cm or 15cm × 15cm) that has been dyed to match the color reference. Lab dips are the physical bridge between the Pantone number and the actual leather material.
How Lab Dips Are Made
- Base leather selection: The lab technician selects a piece of undyed or natural leather that matches the type and grade specified for production. The base leather's natural color affects the final result — a cream-colored hide produces different results than a grey-toned hide when dyed the same formula
- Dye formula calculation: Based on the spectrophotometer reading of the reference, the technician calculates a dye formula. Modern color labs use spectrophotometry software that suggests starting formulas; the technician adjusts based on experience with the specific leather type
- Sample dyeing: The leather piece is dyed in a small laboratory drum (typically 5–10 liter capacity) using the calculated formula. Dyeing conditions — temperature, duration, pH, and drum speed — are carefully controlled and recorded
- Drying and finishing: The sample is dried and finished using the same method planned for bulk production. Finish type (aniline coating, pigmented topcoat, wax treatment) significantly affects the final color
- Initial measurement: The finished lab dip is measured with a spectrophotometer and compared to the reference. Delta E (color difference) is calculated
Lab Dip Timeline
The typical turnaround for lab dip creation is 5–7 working days from receipt of the color reference. This includes:
- Day 1: Reference analysis and formula calculation
- Days 2–3: Dyeing, drying, and finishing
- Day 4: Measurement and quality check
- Days 5–7: Courier shipping to buyer for approval (if international)
Factories that maintain in-house color labs can complete the dyeing and finishing in 2–3 days, with the remaining time dominated by shipping.
How Many Lab Dips Are Sent
Professional factories send 3 lab dip options per color reference: one slightly lighter, one on-target, and one slightly darker. This gives the buyer the ability to choose the preferred shade within tolerance — rather than a binary pass/fail on a single sample. The three options are typically within ±0.5 Delta E of each other, and the spectrophotometer data for each is included on the lab dip card.
Stage 3: Buyer Approval Under Specified Lighting Conditions
This is where most color disputes originate. A lab dip can look acceptable under one light source and unacceptable under another. To prevent disputes, professional factories and buyers agree on the approval lighting conditions before lab dips are produced.
Standard Light Sources for Leather Color Evaluation
The Metamerism Problem
Metamerism is the phenomenon where two colors appear to match under one light source but look different under another. It is the single most common cause of color-related disputes in leather goods.
Why it happens in leather: Leather dye formulas interact with the hide's natural chemistry — tannins, fat content, and fiber structure all affect color absorption. A dye formula that matches a Pantone reference under daylight (D65) may not match under fluorescent light (TL84) because the hide's underlying chemistry creates a different spectral reflectance curve than the cotton Pantone swatch.
How it's managed:
- Lab dips must be evaluated under at minimum two light sources: D65 (daylight, for reference matching) and the buyer's primary retail lighting (TL84 for European brands, CWF for American brands)
- If a lab dip passes D65 but fails TL84, the dye formula must be reformulated — this adds 3–5 days to the lab dip process
- Premium brands require metamerism-free approval: the lab dip must match the reference under all specified light sources, not just daylight
- Some brands specify a Metamerism Index (MI) threshold — typically MI < 0.5 for premium goods
Stage 4: Bulk Dyeing and Top-Coating
Once lab dips are approved, the color standard moves to bulk production. The approved lab dip becomes the physical reference against which every hide in the production batch is measured.
Bulk Dyeing Process
- Hide selection: Hides for the same order are selected from the same tannage lot when possible. Different tannage lots (even of the same leather type) have slightly different absorption characteristics
- Lot dyeing: Hides are dyed in batches (lots) of 10–30 hides per drum. Each drum lot is dyed using the approved formula with identical temperature, duration, and chemical ratios
- In-lot consistency: Hides within the same drum generally achieve consistent color (±0.3 Delta E) because they experience identical dyeing conditions
- Drum-to-drum variation: The challenge is consistency between drum lots. Even with the same formula, slight variations in hide absorption, water quality, drum loading, and ambient temperature cause drum-to-drum color variation of ±0.5–1.5 Delta E
Post-Dyeing Top-Coat and Finish
For semi-aniline and pigmented leather, the final color is affected by the topcoat application. A pigmented topcoat adds a surface color layer that can either unify or shift the appearance. The topcoat must be applied consistently across all panels destined for the same bag — which is why many factories cut leather panels before finishing, then finish the cut panels together to ensure color uniformity.
Stage 5: Color Quality Verification — Delta E Standards
Delta E (ΔE) is the numerical measure of color difference between two samples. It is calculated from the difference in L* (lightness), a* (green-red axis), and b* (blue-yellow axis) values measured by a spectrophotometer.
Delta E formula: ΔE = √[(ΔL*)² + (Δa*)² + (Δb*)²]
Delta E Tolerance Standards
Industry benchmarks for leather bag production:
- Premium / luxury brands: ΔE < 1.0 (lab dip to bulk; bulk lot to lot)
- Mid-range / commercial brands: ΔE < 2.0
- Budget brands: ΔE < 2.5 (rarely specified; quality perception suffers)
Why Leather Color Control Is Fundamentally Harder Than Textiles
Buyers coming from textile or plastic product backgrounds often underestimate the difficulty of color control in leather. The reasons are structural:
Natural Material Variation
Every hide is unique. Two hides from the same tannery, same batch, same species can have different fiber densities, fat content, and surface characteristics. These differences cause the same dye formula to produce slightly different colors on each hide. In textiles, the base material (woven cotton, polyester) is uniform — dye results are consistent within the same batch. In leather, the base material itself varies.
Dye Penetration vs. Surface Color
Leather can be dyed through (drum dyeing, where dye penetrates the full thickness) or surface-coated (pigmented finish, where color sits on top of the hide). Through-dyed leather shows color variation when you look at the cross-section or the flesh side. Surface-coated leather has more uniform color but can chip, crack, or peel. Most luxury bags use a combination — through-dyed for depth, with a light topcoat for surface uniformity. This dual-layer approach requires careful coordination between the dyeing and finishing stages.
Environmental Sensitivity
Leather color continues to evolve after production. Exposure to UV light causes fading. Body oils and moisture cause darkening in frequently handled areas. Temperature and humidity fluctuations during shipping and storage can cause temporary or permanent color shifts. These post-production changes are not factory color control failures — but they are often blamed as such. Clear communication about leather's natural aging behavior is essential.
Bulk Color Consistency Control Measures
Professional factories implement multiple measures to maintain color consistency across bulk production. These measures add cost but prevent far more expensive rework and rejection.
Single-Tannage-Lot Sourcing
For orders requiring tight color consistency (ΔE < 1.0), all hides should come from the same tannage lot. A tannage lot is a batch of hides that were processed together through the tanning, retanning, and fat-liquoring stages. Hides from the same tannage lot have similar absorption characteristics, producing more consistent dyeing results. The downside: a single tannage lot may not supply enough hides for large orders. A typical order of 500 bags requires 150–250 hides; if one tannage lot only covers 200 hides, the remaining hides must come from a second lot — requiring additional color matching verification.
Drum-to-Drum Calibration
When multiple drum lots are needed, each drum's output is measured against the approved lab dip. Drums that fall outside tolerance are flagged. The factory then has three options:
- Adjust the formula for subsequent drums to compensate for systematic drift
- Blend: Mix hides from drums that are slightly light with hides from drums that are slightly dark to achieve a balanced average within tolerance
- Re-dye: Accept the cost of re-dyeing non-conforming drums (the factory bears this cost if the deviation is their error; the buyer bears it if they changed the standard after approval)
Cut-Panel Sorting
After leather is cut into bag panels, panels are sorted by shade before assembly. Even within a single hide, different areas (shoulder, belly, back) can show subtle color variation. Panels for the same bag are sorted from the same hide region to ensure panel-to-panel consistency within each unit.
This process adds 10–15% to cutting room labor time but is standard practice for premium brands. Budget operations that skip this step produce bags where the front panel and back panel are visibly different shades — one of the most common consumer complaints about leather bag quality.
Spectrophotometer Measurement Protocol
Professional color labs follow a structured measurement protocol:
- Measure each approved lab dip at 3 points and average the L*a*b* values
- Measure each hide after dyeing at 3 points (center, shoulder, belly) and record
- Measure 5% of cut panels for spot-check verification
- Log all measurements in a color data management system with reference to the approved standard
Common Color Problems and Solutions
Cost Implications: Custom Colors vs. Stock Colors
Color selection has a direct and sometimes significant impact on production cost and lead time. Understanding these differences helps buyers make informed decisions during the design phase.
Stock Colors (Factory's Standard Range)
Most leather bag factories maintain a range of 20–40 stock colors that are kept in inventory or readily available from their tannery partners. These are typically classic shades — black, natural tan, dark brown, navy, burgundy, olive, and grey variations.
- Cost impact: Zero to minimal. Stock colors are priced into the base leather cost
- Lead time impact: None. Stock leather is available immediately
- Minimum quantity: No minimum — stock colors are available for any order size
- Consistency: High. Stock colors are produced in large volumes with proven formulas
Semi-Custom Colors (Modified Stock Formulas)
The factory adjusts an existing stock formula slightly — for example, making a black slightly warmer or a brown slightly lighter. This is common when a brand wants a distinctive shade that is close to, but not identical to, a standard option.
- Cost impact: $0.50–$2.00 per bag additional (lab dip cost amortized + small batch dyeing surcharge)
- Lead time impact: +7–14 days (lab dip creation and approval before bulk dyeing)
- Minimum quantity: Typically 200+ pieces per color (to justify the dye lot setup)
- Consistency: Good, but first production runs may show slightly more variation than stock colors until the formula is refined
Fully Custom Colors (Pantone Match from Scratch)
The factory develops a completely new dye formula to match a specific Pantone reference or physical sample. This is required for brand-exclusive colors — the signature shade that appears in the brand's lookbook and store fixtures.
- Cost impact: $1.50–$5.00 per bag additional (multiple lab dip rounds + formula development + bulk dyeing surcharge for small batches)
- Lead time impact: +14–28 days (multiple lab dip rounds, each requiring 5–7 days, plus buyer review cycles)
- Minimum quantity: Typically 300–500+ pieces per color (tanneries charge small-lot surcharges below this volume)
- Consistency: Achievable to ΔE < 1.0, but requires more measurement rounds and tighter process control
Cost Comparison Summary
For buyers launching a new collection with 4–6 styles in 3 colors each, using 2 stock colors and 1 custom color per style is a practical approach that balances brand distinctiveness with cost and lead time efficiency.
Best Practices for Buyers: How to Ensure Color Success
Based on 20+ years of color management experience, these are the practices that consistently produce the best results:
- Always specify the Pantone system (FHI TCX/TPG or Solid Coated) — never reference a number without the system suffix
- Provide physical samples when possible — a physical leather swatch in the target material and finish is more reliable than a Pantone number on paper
- Agree on lighting conditions before lab dip approval — specify which light sources will be used for approval (minimum: D65 + your primary retail lighting)
- Require spectrophotometer data with every lab dip submission — the L*a*b* values and Delta E measurement provide objective data that visual inspection cannot
- Set Delta E tolerances in your purchase order — specify ΔE < 1.0 for premium, ΔE < 2.0 for commercial. Agree on measurement points (how many, where on the hide)
- Approve a sealed standard — once a lab dip is approved, seal it in an opaque envelope and store it away from light. This sealed standard is the reference for all bulk production comparisons
- Build color approval time into your development calendar — lab dip rounds take 2–4 weeks including shipping. Plan for 2 rounds (10–14 days total) in your critical path
- Consider seasonal color variation — leather from winter hides (thicker, tighter fiber) absorbs dye differently than summer hides. If your order spans multiple seasons, allow for this natural variation
Bespoke Bags' Color Management System
Our quality control system includes a dedicated color management process that has been refined across 20+ years of leather bag production for brands worldwide.
Our color lab is equipped with:
- A calibrated spectrophotometer (X-Rite or equivalent) for objective color measurement
- A multi-light-source viewing cabinet (D65, TL84, CWF, UV, Incandescent) for visual evaluation and metamerism detection
- Small-capacity laboratory dyeing drums for precise lab dip production
- A color data management system that stores every formula, measurement, and approval record
For every order, we provide:
- 3 lab dip options per color with full spectrophotometer data
- Delta E measurements at every production stage (post-dyeing, post-finishing, post-cutting)
- A sealed approved standard retained in our archive for 2 years — enabling exact color matching on reorders
- Full cooperation with buyer's QC or third-party color inspectors
Whether you are developing your first luxury handbag collection or managing color consistency across a mature product line, our team works with your design department to ensure color accuracy from the first lab dip to the last bag off the production line. Learn more about our custom design and development services.
Writing the Colour Section of a Tech Pack
A colour reference on its own is not a specification. "Pantone 19-4005" tells a dyer which direction to head in; it says nothing about the substrate, the gloss level, the lighting the approval will be judged under, or which panels actually have to agree with each other. Those omissions are what turn a first dip into a third dip.
| Field | What to state | Consequence if omitted |
|---|---|---|
| Reference | Pantone code plus the physical reference if one exists | The match is judged against a printed chip rather than a real material |
| Substrate | Leather type, finish and grain | The same dye reads differently on a corrected grain and on full grain |
| Gloss level | Matt, satin or gloss, with a reference | A correct hue at the wrong sheen still looks wrong in store |
| Approval lighting | The light source and the cabinet or booth to be used | The dip is approved under one light and rejected under another |
| Tolerance | A numerical tolerance agreed before dipping | "Close enough" becomes an argument at final inspection |
| Match scope | Which panels and components must agree | A bag with matching panels but a contrasting strap raises a dispute |
- Send a physical reference wherever one exists — a swatch, a component, or a piece of the previous run.
- State the gloss level explicitly. It is the field most often left out, and it changes the reading most.
- Name the light source for approval and use the same one for every subsequent run.
- Agree the tolerance before the first dip, not after a disagreement about the second.
Where a brand already sells the colour in another material, say so. Matching an existing handbag, shoe or garment is a different job from matching a printed chip, and the reference that matters is the one the customer will compare against.
Matching Colour Across Leather, Lining, Thread and Hardware
A bag is never one colour. It is a leather colour, a lining colour, a thread colour and one or more metal finishes, and the eye reads them together rather than separately. Each of those materials takes dye or finish by a different mechanism, which is why a set that matches perfectly on swatches can disagree when assembled.
| Component | Why it disagrees | Practical approach |
|---|---|---|
| Lining | Different fibre takes dye at a different depth | Approve the lining against the leather, side by side, not separately |
| Thread | Small area, high contrast against the panel | Choose under the same light the bag will be sold in; accept a deliberate contrast if a match is unachievable |
| Metal hardware | Plating tone sits beside the dye rather than inside it | Approve against a retained chip in daylight, not against a rendering |
| Edge finish | Painted edge is a separate film over the leather | Approve the edge colour on the finished leather, not on white |
| Contrast panels | Two leathers, two dye uptakes | Dip both and approve them assembled as a pair |
- Approve the set together — a lining approved alone will be re-approved later.
- Decide deliberately between a match and a contrast; an intentional contrast is easier to hold than a near-match.
- Keep a retained chip for every metal finish, since plating batches vary.
- Approve the edge colour on the actual leather, because a painted film changes how the panel reads.
Where a match cannot be held across two materials, say so early and design around it. A deliberate contrast is a design decision and can be repeated; a near-match that drifts between batches is neither.
Handling a Colour Dispute: What to Measure and When
Colour disagreements escalate when nobody can point at a standard. The dispute is rarely about whether two things differ — everyone can see that — but about which of them is the reference. That is settled before production, not during it, and the settlement is a physical object rather than an email.
- Identify the reference. The sealed approved standard, not the first production unit and not a photograph.
- Measure both under the same conditions, with the same instrument and the same light source used at approval.
- Compare like with like — finished unit against finished unit, not against a swatch cut at a different stage.
- Check the batch reference so the discussion concerns one dye lot rather than the whole order.
- Record the measurement and agree the remedy: re-finish, re-cut, or accept with a documented concession.
A programme that retains a sealed standard and measures against it resolves most disagreements in an afternoon. One that relies on memory and photographs tends to resolve them in a negotiation, which is slower and rarely leaves either side satisfied.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a lab dip, and how long does it take to produce?
A lab dip is a small piece of leather (typically 10cm × 10cm or 15cm × 15cm) dyed to match a specific color reference — either a Pantone number or a physical sample. The lab dip is produced in a small laboratory drum using calculated dye formulas, then dried, finished, and measured with a spectrophotometer. The typical turnaround is 5–7 working days from receipt of the color reference, including dyeing, finishing, quality measurement, and domestic preparation for courier shipping. International shipping to the buyer adds an additional 3–7 days. Professional factories send 3 lab dip options (slightly lighter, on-target, slightly darker) per color reference with full spectrophotometer data included.
What Delta E tolerance should I specify for leather bag production?
For premium and luxury leather goods, specify ΔE < 1.0 — this is the standard used by top-tier brands and means color difference is barely perceptible even to a trained eye under direct comparison. For mid-range commercial products, ΔE < 2.0 is the industry standard, meaning any color difference is noticeable only when samples are placed side by side. For budget products, ΔE < 2.5 may be acceptable but quality perception can suffer. The Delta E standard should be specified in your purchase order before production begins, along with the measurement method (spectrophotometer type, measurement points per hide, and which light sources will be used for visual verification).
What is metamerism, and why does it matter for leather bags?
Metamerism is the phenomenon where two colors appear to match under one light source but look different under another. In leather bag production, this means a bag that matches the approved Pantone reference under daylight (D65) may look noticeably different under the fluorescent lighting in a retail store (TL84 or CWF). Metamerism is caused by the different spectral reflectance curves of the leather dye formula versus the cotton or paper reference material. It is managed by evaluating lab dips under multiple light sources during approval — minimum D65 plus the buyer's primary retail lighting. If a lab dip passes daylight but fails retail lighting, the dye formula must be reformulated, adding 3–5 days to the approval timeline.
How much does a custom color cost compared to a stock color?
Stock colors (the factory's standard range of 20–40 shades) carry no additional cost and no lead time impact. Semi-custom colors (slight modifications to stock formulas) add approximately $0.50–$2.00 per bag plus 7–14 days of lead time for lab dip creation and approval. Fully custom colors (developed from scratch to match a specific Pantone reference) add $1.50–$5.00 per bag plus 14–28 days, accounting for multiple lab dip rounds and buyer review cycles. Custom colors also typically require higher minimum quantities (300–500+ pieces per color) to justify the tannery's small-batch dyeing surcharge. The total custom color development cost per shade — including all lab dip rounds — ranges from $200 to $600, most of which is credited against the first bulk order.
How do you ensure color consistency across a large production run of 1,000+ bags?
Color consistency across large runs is maintained through five key measures: (1) sourcing all hides from the same tannage lot to minimize base material variation; (2) spectrophotometer measurement of every drum lot's output against the approved lab dip, with drum-to-drum tolerance of ΔE < 1.0 for premium orders; (3) blending hides from slightly light and slightly dark drums to achieve balanced average shade; (4) cut-panel sorting — panels for each individual bag are grouped from the same hide region to prevent panel-to-panel variation; and (5) in-line QC checks using the sealed approved standard under agreed lighting conditions. For orders above 1,000 pieces, we recommend buyers specify drum lot marking so that bags packed in the same carton come from the same dye lot — this prevents shade variation between adjacent bags in retail display even if slight inter-lot variation exists.
Last Updated: August 14, 2026
What should be included in a colour specification for a leather bag order?
The reference, the substrate, the gloss level, the lighting the approval will be judged under, a numerical tolerance, and which panels must agree with each other. A Pantone code alone tells a dyer which direction to head in; it does not say what the colour has to look like on the finished bag.
How is colour matched between leather, lining, thread and hardware?
Approve the components assembled rather than separately, because the eye reads them together. Linings take dye at a different depth, thread is high contrast over a small area, and plating tone sits beside the dye rather than inside it. Where a true match is unachievable, design a deliberate contrast instead.
How many lab dip options should be requested for one colour?
Three is a practical number: one on target and two bracketed either side, so the eye can see which direction is closer. Dipping a single option forces a yes-or-no decision with nothing to compare against, which is how approvals end up going round twice.
What should I do if a delivered batch looks different from the approved sample?
Measure the finished unit against the sealed approved standard under the same light source used at approval, and check the batch reference so the discussion covers one dye lot. Compare like with like, record the measurement, and agree a remedy of re-finishing, re-cutting or a documented concession.
How long does an approved colour reference stay valid?
For as long as the sealed standard is retained and the material set is unchanged, which is why the physical reference matters more than a date. Ask for the standard to be kept and re-measured against at each re-order, because leather is dyed in lots and the hide underneath varies between them.
Can one colour be matched across two different leather types?
It can be matched closely, but rarely identically, because grain, finish and dye uptake all differ between leathers. Dip both and approve them as a pair rather than against the same chip. Where the two sit next to each other on the bag, consider whether an intentional contrast will hold better over repeated runs.
Does the gloss level affect how a leather colour is perceived?
Yes, significantly. The same dye at a different sheen reads as a different colour under retail lighting, and it is the field most often left out of a specification. State matt, satin or gloss with a physical reference and approve the dip at the intended gloss level, not before it is applied.